You guy might be great but it's a specialty thing most get over their head on and underquote. I have a 1971 Dodge challenger with original rear end that has never been in garage and have never seen a rearend rust like this. As long as everything is done on the schedule and the proper lube is used that is all that matters. I brought the vehicle back a few weeks later and the dealer replaced the part at my cost. He stated that it is unknown how much longer I would be able to drive it until the rear axle ceases. If you do not replace the drain and fill plugs, I do recommend replacing the crush washers.
Reinstall the drain plug and torque it down. I loved this car before this incident. Fixed with electricity and logic; I applied 15v direct to the actuator motors via the computer control harness. Took it to the dealership. The failure mileage was 49,412. The differential fluid lubricates the internal gears, which help transfer power from the driveshaft to the axle. The manufacturer was notified of the failure.
To be honest I am not sure how, when or why this trigger developed, but I can say that it ultimately causes a lot of confusion on which fluids to use where and when to change them. It will be a brownish hue at this time and it has to be changed. Once the brake cable is out of the way, remove the fill and drain plug. Left rear axle seal leaking gear oil on brakes. If I want my car to continue running smoothly, I needed to get this maintenance item done. The approximate failure mileage was 98,528.
I just got a price quote from my local dealer to lube all grease zerks, and change the engine oil, full synthetic filter, transfer case, and both differentials. That's a very unforgiving area. I consider the problem solved as I have not had the symptom for several months now. It is not necessary to check the transaxle fluid level. Thanks to all for the info. If you have a flex filler and gravity it's even less time.
Once it's up in the air, support the vehicle with jack stands. A good thing is not having to worry about improper sealing of the pan, since it is not removed. I read about this in 2015. There is no other rust under the vehicle except for the pumpkin housing. So I'd imagine the torque spec is the same for the older Tundra's since my 06 Tacoma also has a 36ft lbs torque spec. Wanted to keep another 10 years! I kept hearing a small howling noise as I let off the accelerator from 55 to 50. Rear needed to be replaced.
In fact, it almost got me! Remember watching people run track during the Olympics? Most people never change it for the life of a vehicle and now I'm supposed to sorry about that fluid, Driveshaft greasing, anything else? Anything out of the ordinary would be noted here. This type of corrosion is unusual. Call your dealer first then start asking around. No oil no filter no nothing else besides greasy palm prints on my wheels all of my wheels I've bought 4 new trucks from this dealer over the years along with a few accessories for each of them, now they will probably never get my business again! That way I can also use a torque wrench to torque them correctly. The technician advised me that it is too risky to attempt to repair as it may cause the entire differential to be damaged and the whole rear axle would need to be replaced. It is not one of those common car parts like the transmission or radiator.
On the other hand, the differential fluid keeps things lubricated and helps the differential keep a low operating temperature, which is crucial for proper performance. After inspecting it, a crack was found in the boot. Refilling the front differential fluid… And now re-tighten everything back up again and we are completely done. Exchanged all trans fluid with factory fluid; no leaks detected; appears prior owner under-filled trans at recent drain and fill. I think I have 1,800 miles on it so I'm good for now. If you decide to go the buddy repair route make sure he really knows what he's doing.
Service could not duplicate problem on first visit. Slide assembly and shaft out. Rear fluid is easy to change, two crush washers and a 24 mm socket. The was a clunk in the 'train as I pressed the gas that was worrying me, not huge or severe but just enough to make me notice. Independent off-road shops are worth considering. A failed pinion is loudest right at the pinion and where the carrier bolts into the rear member.